Saltsjöbaden

Saltsjöbaden, a coastal village in Stockholm County, lies 30 minutes by train from central Stockholm in the Stockholm Archipelago. Banker Knut Wallenberg developed the area in the 1890s, creating the Saltsjöbanan railway that still connects it to the city. The Grand Hotel Saltsjöbaden, constructed in 1893, hosted the 1938 labor agreement that shaped Sweden’s labor policies and later became a venue for Cold War-era chess competitions. Along the shore, wooden bathhouses from the early 1900s remain open for swimming during summer months. You can walk along the streets to see the Church of the Epiphany, designed by Ferdinand Boberg with sculptures by Carl Milles.

The Grand Hotel and Key Landmarks

The Grand Hotel Saltsjöbaden defines much of the village’s history. Built on the waterfront in 1893, it gained global attention in December 1938 when Swedish unions and employers signed the Saltsjöbaden Agreement here, shaping labor relations for decades. Those interested in chess history will recognize the hotel as the site of the 1948 and 1952 Interzonal tournaments, won by Soviet players David Bronstein and Alexander Kotov. Nearby, the Church of the Epiphany rises above the village with its red brick walls and copper spire. Ferdinand Boberg designed the church between 1910 and 1913, adding stained glass by Olle Hjortzberg and stone carvings by Carl Milles.

Traveling to Saltsjöbaden

Take the Saltsjöbanan railway from Slussen station in central Stockholm; trains depart every 30 minutes. The 30-minute ride winds through forests before reaching Saltsjöbaden’s station. Use standard Stockholm public transport tickets or pay 45 SEK for a single journey. Trains run all year, so winter visits are straightforward. From the station, follow marked paths to reach major sites within 15 minutes on foot.

Swimming at Saltisbadet Bathhouse

The wooden Saltisbadet bathhouse, designed by Torben Grut in the early 1900s, draws visitors each summer. It has separate swimming sections for men, women, and families, along with a sandy beach and two diving platforms. Admission costs 60 SEK for adults and 30 SEK for children aged 7–15. Nearby rocks provide free swimming spots if you prefer to skip the fee. The bathhouse, one of the last remaining wooden structures of its kind on Sweden’s east coast, is a 10-minute walk from the Grand Hotel.

Where to Eat and Stay

Vår Gård, a conference hotel redesigned as a modern retreat, bakes sourdough bread and cinnamon buns daily in its own kitchen. Try their “24-hour taste experience” package for dishes like oysters, Gotland beef, and chocolate mousse served over multiple courses. The Grand Hotel has two dining options: the French Dining Room for evening meals and the Grand Café for lighter lunches. Near the guest harbor, Holmen Kök och Bar serves seafood with views of Hotellviken bay. Both hotels have saunas; Vår Gård promotes the Nordic practice of switching between sauna heat and cold seawater.

Golf, Tennis, and Nature Trails

Saltsjöbaden Golf Club, founded in 1929, has an 18-hole course surrounded by pine trees five minutes from Vår Gård. Rent clubs or book lessons with the club’s instructors. The Lawn Tennis Club maintains courts near Hotellviken bay, accessible via a short walk from the village center. From June to August, KSSS Marina welcomes boats with 35 guest moorings, showers, and laundry facilities. For hiking, follow trails in Nacka Nature Reserve near the Saltsjöbanan line to see deer and foxes.

Art, History, and Local Shops

Grünewaldsvillan, once the home of artist Isaac Grünewald, opens its studio to visitors and displays rotating art exhibits. Kringelgården bakery has made cardamom buns and rye bread using the same recipes since 1902. Browse Återbruket, a second-hand shop close to the train station, for refurbished furniture and vintage clothing. The Grand Hotel’s lobby exhibits photos of the 1938 labor negotiations and chess tournaments from the 1950s. In summer, watch sailing races organized by the KSSS Club House from the harbor walkway.