Built within ancient black basalt walls, this Kurdish cultural center has 16th-century mosques, traditional bazaars, and archaeological sites from Roman and Byzantine periods.
Diyarbakır rises from the banks of the Tigris River in southeastern Turkey, encircled by black basalt walls from the Roman era. You can walk these 5.5-kilometer walls, climb ancient watchtowers, and wander through medieval streets where craftsmen still work in traditional workshops. The city's black and white stone Great Mosque dates from 1091, while the recently restored St. Giragos Armenian Church welcomes visitors to admire its seven altars. Between the walls and the river, farmers still cultivate the Hevsel Gardens as their ancestors have done for millennia.
Ancient City Walls and Watchtowers
You can access the black basalt walls of Diyarbakır through any of its four main gates. Built in 349 CE under Emperor Constantius II, these walls include 82 watchtowers with stone carvings and Arabic inscriptions. Walk the accessible sections between Mardin Gate and Urfa Gate for the best views of both the old city and the Tigris Valley. The walls are open daily from sunrise to sunset, and you'll find the most comfortable walking conditions in the early morning or late afternoon.
Exploring the Sur District
Walk through the Sur district's narrow streets to find traditional black basalt houses with interior courtyards, a architectural style common in upper Mesopotamia. Local craftsmen continue to work in small workshops, creating metalwork, textiles, and leather goods. The district's markets sell everything from spices to copper items. While reconstruction continues in some areas, the streets around the Great Mosque remain active with local life.
Religious Architecture
The Great Mosque's walls alternate between black basalt and white limestone, creating striking patterns visible from its spacious courtyard. Inside the courtyard, you'll find a stone ablution fountain and an ancient sundial still marking prayer times. At St. Giragos Armenian Church, seven altars stand under a central dome, while natural light streams through tall windows. The church opens daily except Mondays, with guided tours available in Turkish and English.
Local Food Scene
In Diyarbakır's restaurants, chefs prepare lamb with regional spices like sumac and coriander. Order Kaburga Dolması - lamb ribs stuffed with rice, almonds, and spices - or try Meftune, where lamb meets eggplant and garlic in a slow-cooked stew. During summer, street vendors sell slices of the city's famous watermelons, grown in the Tigris Valley. These melons often weigh over 30 kilograms, and you can taste them at their best during the July watermelon festival.
Hevsel Gardens and Tigris River
Walk down from the city walls to explore the Hevsel Gardens, where farmers grow vegetables and fruits on terraced plots beside the Tigris River. These gardens have fed Diyarbakır for over 8,000 years. Follow the marked paths through orchards and vegetable gardens to reach several viewing points along the Tigris River. The best time to visit is late afternoon, when farmers work their plots and the sun sets behind the city walls.
Getting Around
Regular flights connect Diyarbakır Airport with Ankara and Istanbul. In the city, dolmuş (shared minibuses) run between major areas from 6 AM to 10 PM. The old town's narrow streets make walking the best option for exploration. Taxis wait at designated stands throughout the city for longer trips. The main bus terminal, located 6 kilometers from the center, has regular services to other southeastern Turkish cities.
