Diyarbakir, the unofficial capital of Turkish Kurdistan, is a city that has seen more than its fair share of violence and upheaval. But despite the ongoing conflict between the Turkish government and the Kurdish separatist movement, Diyarbakir is a city that is slowly rebuilding itself, and is well worth a visit. The city is crammed with historical and archaeological sites, from the ancient walls that surround the city to the ruins of the Roman and Byzantine empires. The focal point of the city is the central square, where the 16th-century Black Mosque dominates the skyline. There are also a number of bazaars and markets, where you can buy all sorts of souvenirs, from carpets and kilims to traditional Kurdish handicrafts.