This coastal town on Elba Island has a 16th-century Medici fortress and crystal-clear beaches. Napoleon's winter residence still sits among its winding streets and harbor.
Portoferraio welcomes visitors with three hilltop Medici fortresses overlooking the Mediterranean. Walk through the town's narrow streets to discover Napoleon's Villa dei Mulini, swim at Le Ghiaie beach, or explore the Roman Villa della Linguella. The town's harbor buzzes with ferry traffic and fishing boats, while the historic center holds surprises like the Teatro dei Vigilanti, a converted 12th-century church where Napoleon once watched performances.
Getting to Portoferraio
Ferries depart every hour from Piombino on mainland Italy to Portoferraio between 5:00 and 22:00. The crossing takes one hour. You can bring your car, but the town center's streets are narrow and parking is limited. Local buses run every 30 minutes from the port to major beaches and villages across Elba Island.
The Medici Fortification System
Three fortresses - Forte Falcone, Forte Stella, and Forte Linguella - create a defensive ring around Portoferraio's old town. You can walk along the 16th-century walls connecting these fortresses for views across the bay. Climb to Forte Stella's 25-meter lighthouse, built in 1788, which flashes three white signals every 14 seconds. The fortresses open daily from 9:00 to sunset.
Napoleon's Legacy in Portoferraio
Napoleon lived in two residences during his exile from 1814 to 1815. At Villa dei Mulini, between Forte Falcone and Forte Stella, you can see his personal study with original furniture and a collection of his books. His summer residence, Villa San Martino, sits 6 kilometers from town, surrounded by gardens. His sister Paolina Borghese helped him purchase this countryside retreat.
Museums and Cultural Sites
The Archaeological Civic Museum displays Etruscan pottery, Roman amphorae, and maritime artifacts dating from the 8th century BC to the 5th century AD. Walk five minutes to the Roman Villa della Linguella to see mosaic floors and thermal baths. Across the gulf, Villa delle Grotte preserves more Roman ruins. The Pinacoteca Foresiana shows paintings by local artists from the 19th and 20th centuries.
Beaches Around Portoferraio
Le Ghiaie and Le Viste beaches lie within a 15-minute walk from the town center. Le Ghiaie has white pebbles and clear water good for snorkeling. Scaglieri and Forno, 3 kilometers west, have golden sand and beach chairs for rent. The white pebble beaches of Capo Bianco and Seccione remain uncrowded even in summer, though they lack facilities.
Local Food and Events
The Teatro dei Vigilanti hosts the "Elba Isola Musicale d'Europa" festival each September, filling the former church with classical and jazz concerts. During April's "Polpando e gli antichi sapori" festival, restaurants serve traditional octopus dishes like polpo all'elbana (octopus with potatoes and olives) and polpo in zimino (octopus with Swiss chard). Try schiaccia briaca, a local dessert made with wine, nuts, and dried fruit, available year-round in local bakeries.
