Amasya

Amasya sits in northern Turkey’s Black Sea Region, wedged between steep slopes along the Yeşilırmak River. Look up to see Pontic rock tombs cut into limestone cliffs more than two millennia ago. Along the water, white-and-brown Ottoman houses from the 1800s now hold small cafes where you can sip tea. The Archaeological Museum displays mummies from the Ilkhanid period alongside Roman-era tools and Byzantine jewelry. Apple orchards cover the valley floor, giving the city its nickname as Turkey’s fruit basket, with fresh juice sold at street stalls.

Pontic Tombs and Harşena Castle

Eighteen rectangular openings dot the cliffs north of the Yeşilırmak River—tombs carved for Pontic kings around 300 BCE. A zigzagging footpath leads up to the largest chamber, where faded red frescoes hint at ancient burial rituals. Below the tombs, stone foundations mark Harşena Castle’s Byzantine walls, later expanded by Ottomans who added watchtowers and underground tunnels. From the castle’s highest point, you’ll see the entire valley: red-tiled rooftops, orchards stretching to distant hills, and the river’s winding path. Bring sturdy shoes for the climb and water for the 45-minute hike.

Ottoman Houses and Mosques

Wooden homes with cantilevered balconies line both sides of the river, their ground floors now hosting family-run restaurants serving stuffed apricots and lentil soups. The Hazeranlar Mansion stands out with its detailed ceiling carvings and mannequins dressed in 19th-century Ottoman clothing. At the Burmali Mosque, a spiraling brick minaret from 1242 rises beside a courtyard shaded by chestnut trees. For a quiet break, visit the Gök Medrese’s courtyard, a former theological school with geometric stonework around its central fountain. Many buildings here survived earthquakes due to their flexible timber frames.

Artifacts and Medical History

The Archaeological Museum’s star exhibits are two mummified Mongol governors from the 1300s, preserved in glass cases with their leather boots intact. Downstairs, Hittite tablets describe land disputes, while Ottoman swords fill another gallery. Walk five minutes west to the Bimarhane, a mental hospital built in 1308 where music therapy was practiced—look for the carved zodiac signs on its portal. Nearby, the Ferhat Water Channel still carries spring water through stone aqueducts built during Roman times. Guides offer free tours explaining how engineers designed the slope to prevent flooding.

Food Specialties and Apple Harvests

Start your morning with kete, a flaky pastry filled with cheese or potatoes, sold at bakeries near the Sabuncuoglu Bridge. For lunch, try etli çörek—meat-stuffed flatbread baked in clay ovens—at cafes along the river. In October, farmers bring apple varieties like misket and ambar to the central market, where you can sample jams, ciders, and syrups. Many restaurants serve keşkek on Fridays, a hearty stew of shredded meat and barley pounded for hours. Don’t leave without tasting pelte, a jellied dessert made from boiled apple pulp and served with crushed walnuts.

Day Trips: Lakes and Hot Springs

Drive 40 minutes northeast to Lake Borabay, a deep blue lake where you can rent rowboats or hike through pine forests to abandoned monasteries. Near Yedikir Dam, spot herons and kingfishers from the observation deck, or join weekend fishing groups casting for carp. The Terziköy hot springs, 30 minutes south, have indoor pools kept at 40°C year-round—locals claim the sulfur-rich water helps back pain. Pack a picnic if visiting Omarca Forest, where marked trails lead to waterfalls and wild apple trees.

Annual Festivals and Night Views

Every October 10-15, the Apple Festival fills the main square with cooking contests, folk dancers in embroidered vests, and tractor parades decorated with fruit. In June, wrestlers compete in oiled matches at the Kultur Park Stadium during the Amasya Culture Week. After sunset, follow the riverside path lit by amber lamps to see the Pontic tombs illuminated with white spotlights. Winter visitors often have the castle ruins to themselves, with frost highlighting the stonework and fewer than ten tourists daily in January.

Transportation Options

Amasya Merzifon Airport handles daily 75-minute flights to Istanbul’s Sabiha Gökçen Airport. Buses from Ankara take five hours, passing through sunflower fields near Çorum—buy tickets online for front-row seats with extra legroom. If arriving by train from Sivas, expect slow climbs through mountain tunnels and vendors selling simit (sesame bread rings) at stops. Within the city, walk everywhere except for Lake Borabay, where shared minibuses depart hourly from the main terminal. Taxis charge fixed rates to Merzifon or the thermal springs.

Suggested Itinerary

Begin at the riverside tombs, then cross the 13th-century Alçak Bridge to explore Ottoman houses like the Bayezid Pasha Mosque guesthouse. Climb to the castle before noon to avoid afternoon heat, then cool off with apple ice cream at the museum café. Reserve two hours for the Archaeological Museum’s Hittite jewelry collection and the Bimarhane’s medical history exhibits. On day two, take a morning minibus to Lake Borabay, returning in time for an evening stroll past lit-up tombs. If visiting in summer, join locals at 8 PM along the riverbanks where families picnic on melons and grilled corn.