Behramkale, also called Assos, rises on a volcanic hill above the Aegean Sea in Turkey’s Çanakkale province. Greek settlers established this place over 2,700 years ago, and today you can see remnants of its past alongside a working fishing harbor. Walk through streets with 14th-century Ottoman mosques, climb to the Temple of Athena at dawn to see Lesbos island in the distance, or explore stone houses once occupied by fishermen. Below the village, the ancient theater and harbor sit close to ruins like the agora and necropolis, where carved sarcophagi remain from the city’s Hellenistic era. Aristotle taught philosophy here in the 4th century BCE, and the feeling of history remains strong in the uneven stone paths and weathered walls.
Exploring the Acropolis and Archaeological Sites
Begin your visit at the Acropolis, where the Temple of Athena crowns a 235-meter volcanic ridge. Constructed in 530 BCE, this Doric temple includes columns that still outline views of the Aegean and nearby Lesbos. Walk downhill to the theater, built into the slope during the 3rd century BCE, where stone seats once held 5,000 spectators for plays and meetings. Sections of the 4th-century BCE city walls stretch for 3 kilometers, with the West Gate marking their most intact section. Nearby, the necropolis displays sarcophagi carved with intricate patterns, evidence of Assos’ role as a center for stone coffin production. Entrance to the site costs 250 TL, and hours shift between 8:00 AM and 7:30 PM depending on the season.
Behramkale Village: Ottoman History and Daily Life
The upper village centers around the Murad Hüdavendigar Mosque, a 14th-century Ottoman building still used for daily prayers. Narrow streets paved with volcanic stone wind past houses made of red-andesite blocks, some now converted into small hotels with sea-facing terraces. Shops here sell olive oil pressed from local groves, jars of pine honey, and textiles woven by villagers. Stop at a café for gözleme—thin flatbread filled with cheese or spinach—paired with strong Turkish coffee. Be prepared for steep, irregular steps; wheeled suitcases struggle on these paths. Every Friday, a market near the mosque draws residents selling produce like tomatoes, olives, and Ezine cheese from nearby farms.
The Harbor: Fishing Boats and Swimming Spots
A 15-minute walk downhill from the village leads to Assos’ harbor, where fishing boats unload their catch near pebble beaches. Restaurants along the water grill octopus and serve shrimp casserole in clay pots, often accompanied by mezes like stuffed grape leaves or eggplant dip. Rent a kayak to paddle to secluded coves or join a boat tour to Kadırga Bay, 10 minutes east, known for clear water and olive trees shading camping areas. For swimming without crowds, drive 5 kilometers south to Sivrice Bay, where a sandy beach sees fewer visitors even in summer.
Aristotle’s Legacy and Ancient Trade
Assos grew as a port under Persian, Athenian, and Roman control, becoming a hub for exporting stone coffins and olive oil. Aristotle lived here for three years, founding a philosophy school that attracted students from across the Aegean. Later, the Apostle Paul visited during his travels, as mentioned in the Book of Acts. Excavations since the 1980s have revealed structures like the gymnasium and council chamber, with many artifacts now in Çanakkale’s museums. Today, the Assos Academy of Philosophy holds conferences in summer, continuing the city’s scholarly traditions.
Food and Local Products
Meals here focus on fresh Aegean ingredients: olive oil, wild greens, and seafood caught daily. Order çökertme kebab—thinly sliced meat over potatoes with yogurt—or zeytinyağlı enginar, artichokes stewed with carrots and peas. Breakfast often includes fig jam from trees near Mount Ida, served with simit bread coated in sesame seeds. In autumn, visit a village press to taste newly made olive oil, or buy jars of pine honey from stalls along the road.
How to Reach Behramkale
No direct long-distance buses go to Behramkale. From Istanbul, drive five hours via Çanakkale or fly 1.5 hours to Çanakkale Airport, then take a 90-minute taxi. From Izmir, take a bus to Ayvalık (three hours), transfer to a minibus for Ayvacık, and catch a dolmuş to Assos. Ferries from Lesbos in Greece arrive at Ayvalık or Dikili, both two to three hours from Behramkale by road.
When to Visit
April to June and September to October bring mild temperatures (15–25°C), ideal for hiking and exploring ruins. July and August get hot, often above 30°C, with busy beaches and higher hotel prices. Winters are cool (around 10°C) and quiet, though some businesses close by November.
