Kadıköy

Kadıköy sits on Istanbul’s Asian side, mixing historic Ottoman-era buildings with modern cafes and shops. Walk past former Ottoman homes turned into coffee spots, explore bookshops displaying local authors, or watch a ballet at the Süreyya Opera House. Head to Moda to ride the vintage tram along the waterfront or watch soccer games at Fenerbahçe Park’s open fields. The Kadıköy Bazaar fills with stalls offering olives stacked in pyramids, silver fish laid on ice, and craftsmen shaping copper pots. Take evening ferries from Eminönü to see minarets and skyscrapers lit against the dusk sky, then join crowds eating grilled mackerel sandwiches near the docks.

Walk Through Key Neighborhoods

Start in Moda, south of the ferry docks. Follow Moda Caddesi past cafes roasting Turkish coffee and shops selling handmade leather bags. Stop at Moda Pier to watch fishermen cast lines as the sun dips below the Marmara Sea. The 1920s tram clangs its bell while shuttling between Kadıköy Square and Moda’s tea gardens. North of the center, Yeldeğirmeni’s buildings wear murals painted during street art festivals—look for the giant octopus wrapping around a corner on Misaki Milli Sokak.

See Notable Buildings and Museums

Haydarpaşa Train Station’s stone facade and arched windows dominate the waterfront. Though trains no longer depart from here, you can still admire its marble staircases and stained-glass ceilings. The Süreyya Opera House screens classic Turkish films on Mondays when dance rehearsals pause. Fans of 1970s music visit the Barış Manço Museum to see the singer’s flamboyant stage costumes and handwritten song lyrics. Don’t miss the 19th-century Kadıköy Mosque’s striped stonework or the Armenian Surp Takavor Church’s carved altar screen.

Shop at Markets and Stores

At Kadıköy Bazaar, taste-test nine types of honey before buying or haggle for silver jewelry at Tellalzade Street’s antique stalls. Every Tuesday, vendors spread blankets near Altıyol Square to sell secondhand coats, wool rugs, and copper kitchenware. For new items, Bağdat Avenue’s clothing stores display linen dresses and leather jackets beside bakeries selling poğaça pastries. Bookshops along Serasker Street stock English translations of Orhan Pamuk novels and political memoirs by Turkish journalists.

Try Local Foods and Nightlife

Grab a simit coated in sesame seeds from carts near the ferry docks. Lunch at Kadıköy Fish Market lets you pick your mackerel before it’s grilled and stuffed into crusty bread. At dinner, share plates of stuffed grape leaves and garlicky yogurt dips at Çiya, or order octopus salad at Romantika Restaurant overlooking the marina. After dark, Kadife Street’s bars fill with students sipping raki—Arkaoda plays experimental electronica, while Dorock XL blasts Turkish rock covers. Save room for Moda’s stretchy dondurma ice cream twisted with pistachios.

Find Art and Live Music

Hunt for murals in backstreets off Bahariye Street, including a spaceship painting near Rexx Cinema’s indie film screenings. Bina/Havuz hosts photography exhibits in a converted mansion with a courtyard pool turned planter bed. Thursday nights bring jazz trios to Badau’s candlelit basement in Yeldeğirmeni. Coffee lovers line up at Çekirdek for flat whites served with lemon-poppyseed cake. Check event boards for pop-up markets selling vintage concert posters or handmade ceramics.

Spend Time Outdoors

Fenerbahçe Park’s pine trees provide shade for morning jogs past families feeding ducks in ponds. Walk the waterfront path from Kadıköy Pier to Moda, stopping at wooden benches to watch cargo ships glide toward the Bosphorus. Rent bikes near the pier to cycle past teenagers diving off Moda’s concrete platforms into the sea. Join old men playing backgammon at Moda Tea Garden, where tulip-shaped glasses of çay cost 5 lira.

Join Seasonal Events

In April, the Istanbul Theatre Festival stages avant-garde plays at Süreyya Opera House. July’s Maritime Festival transforms the coast with sailboat races and stalls frying anchovies served on paper plates. October brings book fairs to Bahariye Street, where authors sign copies beside piles of discounted novels. December lights up Yeldeğirmeni with projection-mapped holiday scenes on building facades.

Transportation Tips

Ferries from Eminönü reach Kadıköy in 15 minutes—sit on the right side for Hagia Sophia views. From Sabiha Gökçen Airport, take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station, then transfer to the tram. Most shops and restaurants cluster within walking distance of the ferry docks. For Moda, hop on the vintage tram departing every 20 minutes from Kadıköy Square. Shared taxis (dolmuş) to Fenerbahçe leave when they fill up—look for yellow minibuses displaying the neighborhood’s name.